Illustration: Ashif Ahmed Rudro; Photo: Amran Hossain

Four centuries ago, the Muslim population of Dhaka was relatively small. However, the arrival of the Mughals precipitated a shift. These individuals brought their own culinary staff, ensuring the availability of familiar fare.

They would partake in various types of bread and kebabs. Naan-taftan, an almond-infused naan roti, was prevalent in the Mughal army camp in Dhaka. Another popular item was shirmal roti, introduced to Dhaka from Agra by Mughal subahdars.

During this period, shirmal was prepared with semolina. These rotis were likely staples of the iftar menu. During winter, Akbari Nankhatai was added to the selection, accompanied by diverse kebabs.

A notable kebab of the era was Parsand's sheek kebab, prepared with substantial portions of meat, later known as sutli kebab. Other varieties included mosallam kebab, shami kebab, handi kebab, tika kebab, tash kebab, and various fish kebabs.

Wealthy Muslims of the time partook in approximately 50 distinct dishes!

In 1639, Shah Shuja assumed the position of subahdar of Bengal. During his tenure, 300 Shia families arrived in Dhaka, introducing one Khorasani polao. The Mughals also prepared a dish akin to modern-day haleem -- incorporating meat, spices, lemon juice, and wheat.

Beyond savoury dishes, sweet preparations were also popular during the Mughal era.

In the mid-19th century, preparations for Ramadan commenced after Shab-e-Barat. Water vessels were cleaned, and new surahis, clay hookahs, and other items were procured. These were brought home and scented with perfume.

During hot days, earthenware jugs were used to keep water cool, with rose and keora essences added for fragrance. At that time, iftar was referred to as "roza kholai", signifying the breaking of the fast with food.

Preparations for iftar began in every household after zuhr prayer.

Women would proceed to the kitchen, where pre-soaked chickpeas and moong dal were prepared. Phuluri was made from the chopped dal, with efforts made to ensure it was served hot during iftar.

There were shorbots mixed with Zamzam water. The shorbot menu included faluda, tokma shorbot, bel shorbot, pomegranate shorbot, and lemon and tamarind shorbot. Takhse Raihan was a popular variant of tokma shorbot.

After shorbot and dates, the main iftar meal would begin, with individuals of all ages gathering at the dastarkhan. Various homemade muri dishes, sweet and savoury samosas, raw and fried dals, fruits, onions, and phuluri were procured from the market.

A sweet mixed food called "Golapi Ukhre" was also present, alongside roasted chira, dobhaja, tepiphuluri, large mashkalai dal-boot, bakarkhani, and kebabs.

While diverse iftar preparations were made at home, residents of Old Dhaka consistently acquired items from Chawk Bazar. Both the affluent and the less privileged frequented the Chawk. Even in the early 20th century, the notion of iftar market in Dhaka exclusively referred to Chawk Bazar.

However, in the 1940s, the situation began to evolve, with temporary iftar stalls emerging in neighbourhoods due to increased demand.

Following the Partition of 1947, the growth of the middle class in Dhaka led to the incorporation of pitha-puli from rural Bengal into iftar.

After the independence of Bangladesh, the scale and diversity of Ramadan and iftar arrangements increased significantly.