Situated somewhere in the middle of the eastern and western parts of Europe, Prague is a city of contradictions. On the one hand, it promotes itself as a complete Eastern European experience: the exotic language, the different currency, the historical significance. On the other, it claims to be a notch above the rest of the East, “safer” and “more developed.” Putting those two hands together results in quite a loose grip that doesn't really hold on to any particular identity. So this time, dear traveller, it'll be up to you to do the labelling.

At first, when you get off the train at the train station, you'll find that the station and the shops are nice and shiny. But the ticket machines are ancient, resembling steel almiras that were once a staple in Bangladeshi homes but are now only found in government offices. You almost fear putting any of your money in the machine, suspecting it to be broken. You will then probably walk to a circular ticket counter hosting an angry cashier, who will then throw your Euros at your face and point at the three money exchange booths, neatly and most conveniently lined up beside the ticket counter, with very convenient currency exchange rates. Convenient for them, that is.

But keep your spirits high, because once you manage to get on the metro and reach the city centre, you will be thoroughly charmed by the bohemian and fairytale capital of the Czech Republic. A tram will take you through cobblestone streets to the heart of the city where the Charles Bridge resides, a very cheerful area jam packed with tourists (and even that doesn't seem a bad thing anymore).

During your time in Prague, you won't miss the Prague Castle peeking temptingly above the hilltops as you walk across the Charles Bridge, even though vendors and street performers will try to distract you. You can make your way up there using a funicular (which is a fancy word meaning a mix of cable car and tram). While up there, visit the cathedral and monastery, peruse the sleepy streets and don't be afraid to do a bit of mild hiking for some stunning views.

Down where the mortals live, make sure you don't miss an opera performance. You get to choose from quite a few theatres, and the best part is, if you show up five minutes before the show you might luckily get excellent seats at very cheap rates.

Visit the Jewish Quarter for an eye opening experience of the Nazi occupation in Prague. Make sure you take a walk through the shocking Jewish Cemetery, and visit the Terezin Museum. This particular museum stores artwork created by Jewish children who were held prisoner during the Nazi occupation and were ultimately killed, and tell a riveting and heartbreaking story.

I could go on about the Charles Bridge, or the Old Town square with the astronomical clock, or the surprising stretch of wall in a corner alley with colourful psychedelic graffiti called the “John Lennon Wall”. But I was never a fan of sounding like a guidebook. The beauty of Prague is in its eccentricities, of nothing truly belonging but existing cogently nonetheless.

I am partial to Prague in the night-time. At night, when the neon lights dim down and the cosmopolitan shops close, you are greeted with an essence of what Old Town must have been like in centuries past. As the Gothic-style sculptures stare down at you and a cool breeze blows by, under the yellow lights the cobblestone streets open up to a whole other world. Prague is definitely a fairytale city, but it is more Brothers Grimm than Disney. No kings, princesses or fairies here; this is a city where alchemists, witches and golems roamed. And there's a different sort of magic in that.

Traveller's Tips:
To brave (and poor) souls like myself who don't mind hostels, I highly recommend Charles Bridge Economic Hostel, situated literally right next to Prague's aforementioned landmark. They also have unlimited free coffee/hot chocolate, and the staff are very nice.
Counterfeit money is a huge issue in Prague. Never, ever walk into a random foreign exchange, no matter how attractive the rates or how shiny the entrance. Ask your hotel or tour guides where to get reliable money.
Don't be fooled by the Czech crown --- when you convert it to Euros, you'll find things are just as expensive, if not more. Prague is no less an expensive city for tourists than neighbouring Vienna.