Very few people will pick duck as the tastiest meat among them all. Both beef and mutton have a sense of exclusiveness about them. They are called upon during celebrations, festivities and large get-togethers. Meanwhile, chicken is an everyday affair, somewhat like a staple food, something you don't mind eating regularly. 

Perhaps because of these reasons, duck ranks low in Kingdom Animalia on the dining table.

But even though it is a bit underrated, duck has a special place reserved in our hearts. For most households, eating duck is a seasonal affair. And no matter whether you eat it in other times of the year or not, duck meat is bound to make its appearance on the dining table several times during the winter season. You cannot simply enjoy winter to the fullest unless you savour duck during the season. 

It is all about the fat. The extra fat that accumulates in a duck's body during this time of year is what makes it popular. So much so, some cooks make a special pilaf out of the oil. 

60-year old Syeda Begum, from Comilla, has been making this dish for decades. "You may use a little of those normal, commercially available edible oils. But the key is using duck skin and may be a couple of meat pieces," Begum shares her pilaf recipe. "This allows you to extract oil from the duck while you are cooking the pilaf. The beautiful flavour of the duck gets diffused all throughout, making it a fantastic delicacy."    

'Haash bhuna' - duck curry, simply put - is a hot favourite. In a span of a year, duck is cooked a small number of times when compared to other meats. And therefore, when it is cooked, it is done so with a lot of care and fervour. The curry is loaded with a wide array of spices, making it a very special dish. 

Sometimes, 'methi' is added for an aroma that acts as a teaser. And the taste is just fantastic, making you wonder why you don't eat it more often and almost making you decide that from now on you will savour this dish all throughout the year instead of restricting it to only one season. 

Of course, duck is served in many restaurants at all times of the year, offering a diverse assortment of options of duck meat. Among them, perhaps the most renowned - which is one of the most highly sought after dishes in the whole world - is the Peking duck. This Chinese treasure, which is a centuries-old dish, is often included in 'foods you must try out before you die'-type lists. 

Our love for the exotic is only next to our love for the 'deshi'. The spicy curry is of course accompanied by a variety of other dishes.

One of them is pitha. It is winter, after all. In this season, if there is one food that is more popular than duck, it must be pitha. It is not required for the two to rival each other, though. Instead, they complement each other well. Duck curry and 'chitoi pitha' is a perfect pair. The chitoi has a rather neutral taste. Tear a piece and dip it in the curry and gulp it down with a piece of meat. The same is also done with roti made of rice powder. 

Being Bengali, rice is of course a central item on the menu, in whatever form or quantity. Bhuna khichuri is usually asked for when eating duck curry. As one of the characters in the movie Guerrilla chants, "Ek dofa ek dabi, haasher mangsho bhuna khichuri!"  

Without these 'finer' sidekicks, duck still has gustatory appeal with simple, plain rice. "My grandchildren prefer rice as the perfect food to go with duck," Begum says. "When the curry is finished, they will take a handful of rice onto the empty bowl and mix the remaining 'jhol' and bits of the duck to relish in the meal further." 

However, there is a segment of people who do not eat duck, complaining about a foul smell. Well, the rest of the world doesn't complain! 

Perhaps it is also because of this group of naysayers that makes duck rank lower than many other meats. Nevertheless, in winter, duck is in high demand. Even if you do not eat duck the rest of the year, the extra fat that accumulates in this season makes this avian a delicacy few of us want to miss.

Chicken, beef or mutton may be your favourite. But during winter, duck rules, and no other meat is probably eaten at this time of year with more excitement and enthusiasm. 

Duck is a winter favourite. 

By M H Haider   
Photo: Collected