One has to walk considerably to get to the location, which is smack right in the middle of farmland and sunny hills. Once there, I had to fight my way through what looked like millions of tourists in order to get to the edge of the viewing platform, which afforded a comfortable view of what is certainly one of the most breathtaking finds made in recent history. 

They were history, craftsmanship and philosophy all rolled into one idea. Each terracotta warrior was distinct and unique, bearing the features of the individual soldier it was meant to represent. It was hard for newer visitors to find a spot on the platform — once faced with such magnificence no one wanted to leave.  

With the sunset darkness falls in the main city of Xi'an and the living come out. The dead from the morning become memento mori and all the senses are at once engulfed with the joys of living. The Xi'an Muslim Quarter street becomes lined with platters of aromatic food, ready to be feasted on. 

Bushels of dates and pistachios mingle with grilled lamb, spices breads and rice cakes. After going through three jars of the local yoghurt drink, we sat down to a dinner of noodle soup topped with roast lamb and hand torn bread. 

The city of the living continued in a maze of bright lights, concrete and laughter. Somewhere near in the outskirts of the city, the determined faces of the terracotta warriors remain forever vigilant, forever mysterious.